![]() If you can turn the key and can turn the steering wheel freely (get it unlocked), then maybe the alarm system could derivate the issue.ģ.- If you can not turn the key, then the issue will be between ECU and the keyhole or alarm system too.Ĥ.- And also the key is connected to the shifter box, so get sure can move the shifter to park and neutral after opening the key. You can buy a substitute it cheap with a lock simulator, but the headache is getting out the old one (must take out the steering wheel system complete if is locked). If you can turn the key, then the steering lock can be the issue. If the ECU or someone of these parts receives water or humidity that can cause this kind of issue.ġ.- Check the ECU and fuse connections for rust (take them out one by one and review its connection zone, and do the same with the relays, almost all have three fuses zones, front driver side, at the driver's door, and in the rear driver's side).Ģ- listen for a click when the key is on and try to turn the steering wheel. The ECU is paired with the key and the steering lock. Buy one cheap, because you will need it multiple times and will save some money. I have been there, I am still there, and maybe I can provide some information you don't have.īasically just try to get a diagnosis by the OBD2 system. If you have any related issues, feel free to PM me or respond in the threads. Going to run it into the ground, hoping it will last me past 160k. Car isn't worth a lot these days especially with DEQ passing issues (2nd Air and EVAP don't ever want to get ready statuses) but it still runs and drives well at 135k miles. Currently at the point where my trusted mechanic has recommended replacing my ECU (we tried re-flashing the ECU using his STAR setup, helped with a random limp mode condition I couldn't fix). If you have the same year range or model as me (03 C230), and have ECU, electrical, and/or emission systems issues that go with misfires at idle speed, I have them, they suck, and I have spent a lot of time in and on my car to try and fix them. You can't use the old method of hitting the starter to temporarily get by due to physical construction and type of components in newer starters ( Bench Testing a Starter Motor). Had to replace the bad starter, everything works fine. Always figured it was a vacuum line issue but I have seen a variety of answers on the forums. To pass DEQ I zip-tie my gas slightly to keep the RPMs around 1000 so I don't get a check engine light. I am accustomed to having my foot rest slightly on the throttle at stops. Check the manual for security disabling the starter?īTW: My car also has the dreaded rough idle if I let the RPMs drop below 800 at rest in neutral. Tried my backup key with the same results.ģ. Push starting my car by dropping into 2nd gear works fine and I was able to drive my car home.ģ. Headlights don't dim when I turn the key for ignition.Ģ. I have had the battery/alternator workshop light on everyday, even after I replaced the battery (tested battery first).ġ. The battery is brand new and jumping does nothing (terminals all clean). (No clicks when turning the key into the 3rd position, 2nd starts the coolant pump). No Crank when I turn the key for ignition.
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